Every wine drinker knows about the Marlborough Region, whose exceptional Sauvignon Blancs brought New Zealand to fame as a wine producer. NZ skyrocketed in recognition, production and export quickly in the 90s and many people still only know its Sauvignon Blancs. While they are wonderful, especially the ones produced here in this valley, this region and the rest of the country have really branched out into more styles of SB, more varietals and a focus on sustainable vineyards and bottling.
We’re in the heart of it this week in the small city of Blenheim…not a particularly charming town in and of itself, but with views of the mountains surrounding the Marlborough Sounds, easy access to the beach, hills with scenic vineyard views for walking and of course the wine cellars, it makes a great base for a relaxing week.
Friday – Move Day
After a quick pack (since we didn’t really move in), we started our final drive north on the South Island, stopping to see the seal colony that delighted us on the way down. The seal pups were still abundant (albeit older), but so were the bees which made the viewing platform almost intolerable this time.
It’s not a far distance from Kaikoura to Blenheim so we had plenty of time to stop and play. After several false stops (blocked by roadworks or closed due to earthquake damage), we hit the jackpot at Marfells Beach.
With a full DOC campground, a long sweeping beach and an enticing trail to a lighthouse, this is a perfect spot for the two of us. While Hale decided whether to surf or kitesurf (surfing won), I walked south and then east to the Cape Campbell lighthouse.
Pinch points on this walk used to be only accessible at the lowest tide, so it had to be timed carefully. That’s not the case anymore as the landscape dramatically changed less than five years ago.
During the Kaikoura 2016 earthquake, Cape Campbell, moved to the north-northeast by more than two meters – putting it that much closer to the North Island – and the land rose almost one meter. There was a major cape effect of wind on the walk out and particularly at the point itself, but other than that it was a great tramp through the sand, over the rocks and along the rock shelf that lines the point.
We arrived in Blenheim just at traffic hour, which is surprisingly busy in this small city until you realize that everyone must drive home at between 4:55-5:05 making it very shortlived. We decided to hold off on the grocery until evening and instead moved into our extremely comfortable three bedroom “villa” (small house) in a typical kiwi neighborhood.
Feb 28, 2020 = NZ records its first Coronovirus case.
Saturday
I was excited to bike to the Wither Hills first thing in the morning, raring for a good hike up to one of the viewpoints. Sadly, all the tracks to the top of the hills, or even along the slopes, were closed due to high fire danger. I found the one good option that was still open and enjoyed it very much nonetheless.
It was not a beautiful day so we spent it on our laptops catching up on things, with only an evening river walk for me to add any further excitement to the day.
Sunday
We had a slow morning of laundry and kitchen chores before hitting the local farmers market. Then we had to drive back south to Kaikoura to pick up our left behind iPad. (First time we have left anything and we blame it on the modified packing routine due to the short stay. Hopefully that is the case, rather than us becoming sloppy.)
Hale kindly dropped me off about halfway at Kekereunga for a gorgeous isolated beach walk along a long black sand beach lapped by striking blue water . This beach holds the softest, smoothest rocks I have ever touched.
After my pickup, we drove back north to Ward Beach. A non-publicized, yet incredible beach at the end of a farm and mining road, this area also changed dramatically in the Kaikoura earthquake. The earth uplifted here, creating new rock shelf, new visible rock formations and a surf break where none existed before.
And as an extra bonus, the land shift revealed Ward’s very own “Moeraki boulders,” just a few minutes’ walk north of the parking area. And if that was not enough for a great beach walk, along with the high and varied hills rising behind, when we went a little further north to see what was around the next cape, we found a seal rookery.
Our next stop was Marfell’s Beach, where there was neither surf nor wind this day, as opposed to last Friday when there was plenty of both. Still great for a beach walk along the hard packed sand – such a difference from the other two beaches of the day just kilometres south of here.
We’ve been spending a lot of time talking this week about how COVID-19 may impact our travel, but we suspended that today for a brainstorm on what we want out of our Europe travels.
(Editorial note: Preparing this for posting now during our first week of lockdown, it is shocking to think it was only four weeks ago. And finally posting this months later, it is hard to imagine when we will actually put those Europe ideas into practice.)
Monday
Morning at Wither Hills for me, trying out another trail along the base of the hills and through some vineyards, then laptop time working on future planning.
In the afternoon, we went wine tasting at Wairau Hills (fun and easygoing), Huia (great biodynamic wines; very informative), Whitehaven (rushed, mass feeling) and then stopped at Moa Brewing for a tasting of their craft beers as a self-paced enjoyable outside patio experience.
Tuesday
Morning at Wither Hills for me, then laptop time seeing how I could impact the primary from afar while Hale drove to Marfells Beach for surfing.
Wine tasting late afternoon at Allan Scott (good, friendly server), Forrester (interesting wines, server very excited to be going to Willamette in August) and Framingham (also good, server from Germany.)
Wednesday
Morning river hike to Taylors Dam for me on a grey day, then making calls for Warren on this Super Tuesday. Surprisingly exhilarating and not at all demoralizing to do this. I’m excited to see that the remote volunteer opportunities are good.
Hale cleaned out our filthy car and then we were back to our afternoon wine tasting. This time at Wither Hills (good wine, terribly disorganized staff) and then a wonderful experience at Villa Maria, New Zealand’s largest family owned winery. In the evening, we enjoyed watching Ryan’s movie as an antidote to the bad news rolling in on the primary.
COVID Cases NZ = 3
Thursday
Cold morning! Also a sad one as Warren announced she is reassessing. Morning spent catching up on project plan and preparing to leave for Welly early the next morning.
Grocery shopping for “one plus one.” We are not panicking about COVID 19, but have picked up a thermometer for testing and and ibuprofen for fever reduction if necessary. We have also decided to buy an extra week of non-perishable food in case we have to self-isolate somewhere. Who wants to run out of coffee or toothpaste when you are forced to stay inside together for 14 days?
Our last day in Marlborough meant more wine tasting and the two this afternoon were great – very relaxed, with hosts at both that were very new to their roles, but knew enough for our level of wine knowledge and were extremely laid back.
First was Brancott, which is enormous and owned by a global liquor company, but we went anyway for the amazing views from its hilltop perch overlooking its vineyards and the entire valley. Spy Valley is also extremely modern, but smaller and has great wines. There we enjoyed chatting with two other couples (one from the US and one from UK) about their travels.
I finished the day with a lovely river walk at a peaceful and pretty time of evening and then home to pack for our trip across the Cook Straight.
Wrap
We were sad to leave this very comfortable home where we had such a relaxing week but sadder still to leave the South Island. If we’d known we were going to be able to spend more than 6 months in NZ, we would have spent more time in this beautiful and empty land, particularly in the lakes region and down near Kakanui. But, we have advance reservations and we keep reminding ourselves – we LOVE the North Island too.
Week 20 of our journey