As we were planning our trip to New Zealand, I was torn whether to do all our visiting of Tongariro from our time in Taupo or add additional time closer to the park. I chose the latter to buy some insurance for good weather to enjoy it but decided against a full week there.
You will recall that we had a wonderful day in the park hiking Tama Lakes back in the spring while in Taupo and that increased our anticipation for this visit. We chose to stay in a small farm town with easy access to multiple parts of the park in order to take full advantage. Unfortunately, that plan didn’t quite come to fruition beyond day 1.
Wednesday – Move Day
I enjoyed one last walk to the wind turbine in the morning, before cleaning, packing and starting the drive northeast from Wellington to Tongariro. We made a few stops along the way, checking out west coast beach towns and strolling along shores, before hitting a grocery and then proceeding on to the tiny crossroads of Raetihi where we stayed for five days.
Our Airbnb for the week was a manufactured home on a generous plot of land surrounded by cow pasture and with a magnificent view of Mt Ruapehu. We spent the evening preparing for a very early morning – alarms set for 3:30am – in order to tackle the world famous Tongariro Crossing.
Thursday
From NZ Tourism: “Often described as New Zealand’s greatest day walk, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a challenging journey across a remarkable volcanic landscape.” “Lava flows, an active crater, steam vents, emerald-coloured lakes and magnificent views combine to make this an unforgettable walking journey.”
And the truth is, it’s a magnificent walk. But, here’s a secret, it’s not the best NZ has to offer.
Because it is so popular, the Crossing is also often packed with people and we were not at all interested in hiking in a line of people, so we made a plan to avoid the crowds by being out in front of them. Since the walk is 19.4 up and down kilometres one way, it’s necessary to use a shuttle to do the hike. Therefore I had arranged months ago for us to be on the very first shuttle of the day allowing us to start the hike before 5am.
Not much sleep and we were both up before our alarms. Our dark drive from home to the lodge where our shuttle departed was quick, with only a few truckies on the road for distraction. There was fog (or low cloud?) but mostly just pitch black and cold. On arrival at the parking lot, we were quickly loaded into a van filled with about 30 other trekkers and driven about 30 minutes to the start of the trail. One of the guys on the bus was just realizing that we’d all be walking in the dark for the first couple of hours.
That actually turned out to be magical. Once the bus drove to the base of the trail, we emerged from the cloud into clear skies illuminated by the full moon and the Milky Way. What a sensation to walk through a desert landscape guided by the moon, with no need for a headlamp and the ability to pick out the surrounding peaks and nearby rock formations. Because it is so well traveled, the track is wide and the first part is fairly flat and free of hazards.
Our strategy worked. Soon our fellow shuttle passengers were widely spread and it felt like we had the trail to ourselves, with little pinpricks of light from headlamps the main sign that we didn’t.
As we started to climb a couple of hours later, the sky began to lighten just enough for us to make out the rock steps and manmade steps that make up “the Devil’s Staircase” across layers of ancient and modern lava flows and volcanic deposits. Light increased quickly as we crossed the South Crater, marveling at being inside such a massive ancient volcano.
A short climb on an exposed ridge, took us to Red Crater, with perfect timing of a red sky to make it even more surreal.
The views out over the Oturere Valley, Rangipo Desert, Kaimanawa Ranges and down towards the Emerald Lakes were stunning, but it was extremely blustery on this windy day and that made it bitingly cold on the ridge. I really wanted to stay up there to watch the light fully change and illuminate the far reaches of the crater, but after I lost all feeling in my fingers, down we went to the lakes themselves.
The steam vents were tempting for warmth, but also dangerous and just recently a tourist off the trail stuck their leg through the crust into one – resulting in terrible injuries. Scrambling down the scree hillside, I managed to do a bit of a wipeout myself, but mine only resulted in laughter.
After the Emerald Lakes, we were then treated to the entirely different coloring and setting of the Blue Lake.
From the Blue Lake, it was a short easy climb to the edge of North Crater, which was once filled with molten lava which cooled and solidified to give a level surface more than 1000m wide. From there the last two hours are easy and enjoyable, but less dramatic.
First to the Ketahi Shelter, which used to be an overnight shelter until it was pummeled in a (very) recent explosion then across the stream and its bed filled with mineral stained rocks that flows down from Ketetahi Springs. The Springs are on private land and forbidden, but wouldn’t you know it that we see some tourists heading off track up that way.
The open tussock landscape descending the mountain was beautiful in the late morning sunshine and then we were treated to a surprisingly serene, quiet and green beauty on the very last leg through the forest to the shuttle pickup.
Towards the end as we were exiting the bush, my nose started running like a sudden attack of allergy and I blamed it on something in the woods. Unfortunately, it just got worse throughout the rest of the day. That, plus the lack of sleep, led to a lazy afternoon and evening around the house enjoying the mountain view.
Friday
We spent most of day quietly at home as I fought what turned out to be more of a cold than allergies. We spent our time discussing the economy and the market crash and how we are prepared to ride it out. And then we started ruminating on how Covid might impact our plans, having no idea just how common a conversation this would become between us in no time at all.
Stir crazy, in the early evening we drove to the nearby “ski town by winter and mountain bike town by summer” of Ohakune and enjoyed the dark green woods on the short Rimu and Forest walks.
Saturday
Sunrise with the cows. It is amazingly fun to watch these bovine beasts chewing on grass and treats of eucalyptus bark. They are curious about us and not bothered by us one bit. Another mostly home day: still fighting my cold and still ruminating on how Covid might impact our plans.
In the afternoon, we drove to Ohakune again and walked part of the Old Coach Trail to the twin viaducts. It’s a sunny and open trail – not as nice as being in woods but the big Harley Davidson rally in town blocked access to any other options.
We started spending too much time reading the news, but it was hard not to with Covid impacting so many countries and economies around the world. Jacinda announced mandatory self-isolation for everyone arriving in NZ. We are so grateful to be here.
COVID Cases NZ = 5
Sunday
March 15. Remembrance Day for the Christchurch attacks and a day of reflection for the country.
Up before sunrise for yet another mostly home day. I was still fighting my cold and started monitoring my temperature just in case, but no fever so not (really) worried that I have Covid.
I started working on our “full 12 months in NZ” plan – filling out our extension form and paperwork, reading about climate in different parts of country and thinking about what we would enjoy in an additional four months in this wonderful country.
We drove to Ohakune yet again and this time were able to venture up the mountain road towards the ski area for two waterfall trails – one incredibly short and one about an hour, but both lovely through bush and even wetlands on the second one.
After that, we enjoyed a surprisingly good walk right in town through the bush, along a stream and out to the Carrot adventure park. (These Kiwis love their big things, but I think Australia is still the winner when it comes to that phenomenon.)
COVID Cases NZ = 8
Wrap
Excepting the Crossing, this wasn’t the full on hiking week I had planned. That, however, was my cold’s fault rather than this gorgeous area. I must say that it was a pleasure to have such a beautiful mountain view, with the addition of funny cows, to enjoy while reclining on the couch.
Week 21B of our journey