Another week in a supremely enjoyable lake town surrounded by unbelievably stunning hiking
We were glad to revisit this pretty little town set amongst mountains on the shores of a beautiful lake. We spent our second week in Wanaka finding yet more delightful trails and sights.
Monday – Move Day
I enjoyed one last walk along the shores of the Clutha river canyon before we cleaned, packed and left Alexandra. Before we could make it out of the driveway though, Owen stopped us to gift Hale with venison sausage and wild boar bacon from his hunting and personal processing.
It was a rainy day, so despite having only 90 minutes between destinations, we didn’t plan for any big activities. Instead we took a stroll in the rain along the shores of Lake Dunstan in Cromwell, stopped by a couple of orchards to restock on mouth-watering stone fruit and then continued into Wanaka.
When we stopped by the DOC Mt Aspiring office to learn about new hikes for our second week here, we learned that the road out to our favorite Makarora valley with the glacial hikes is impassable due to the rain. There are ten fords to cross on the last stretch of washboard gravel road. When we went, these were very shallow but now are rivers across the road.
We also learned that the road to Milford Sound is closed after the rain down there has caused slips (landslides) and flooding that washed out big chunks of the road. There are about 200 people stranded at the sound or out on hiking trails plus they have had to airlift people who were stuck on parts of the road between washouts. We are so lucky that we went just a week before. (This would turn out to be only the first major hit to tourism for Fiordland in 2020.)
Our home this week is a beautiful studio apartment on the ground floor of a big house, with loads of windows looking out into their backyard and Mt Roy beyond, all complemented by a lovely welcoming host. After settling in, we took a very wind-blown walk along the lake, but the rain held for us and the lake was beautiful all kicked up with whitecaps.
Tuesday
The rain had already started in earnest by 6, so I enjoyed a rather tame walk through this pretty neighborhood, out into some surrounding rural roads and then back home through the Station Park with its towering redwoods. Then we had a quiet day at home while the rain fell constantly until almost nightfall when I snuck out for another short stretch.
Wednesday
We woke to a fine day, so we struck out for Diamond Lake Track. This is a very pretty hike up to a not very exciting lake (more like a pond) but then up to multiple lookouts and through striking rock formations.
Afterwards, we picnicked at the base of two very high waterfalls and then drove just a bit further down Mt Aspiring Road to walk the lakeside Minaret Trail to Colquhouns Beach.
This is a lovely, undulating trail that was virtually all ours, until the sandflies attacked me once we were near the shore. So much for sitting and enjoying the view of the islands in the lake, but the walk back was equally enjoyable and it was late by the time we returned anyway.
Thursday
We were up early to tackle Mt Roy Peak, home of the second most famous Instagram picture in the Wanaka area (the first being the tree.) Knowing how popular it is and having seen the parking lot overflowing with campervans, I had toyed with skipping it. When I mentioned that to the DOC ranger, she told me not to miss it and that the crowds and steep trek were worth it. She was 100% right.
We loved every step of it, despite the lack of solitude. The walk up was relentless, but there were constant views of either the lake, the hills or the mountains – most often of all three. We did the obligatory pictures at the lookout and then continued up to the summit for more mesmerizing views and a snack.
The stroll down was still long (the entire hike being 18km) but every step was enjoyable. Once down, we picnicked at Ruby Creek Park on Lake Wanaka, where we spent time chatting with a British couple who couldn’t fathom the length of our trip to New Zealand.
Friday
Another early morning for another stunning hike, this time the polar opposite in terms of people (we saw one person on our 9km up the track and less than ten on the return, versus 300+ on Mt Roy.)
Minus the crowds, it is the same style of a steep climb to grandiose views. This one was very aptly named the Grandview Mountain track and we loved every bit of it.
The lower hike went through a green and craggy valley and then turned to a stretch of golden grasses before reaching the summit amongst schist rock formations. We took a short break at the top (chilly up there as opposed to the heat of the track itself) and then a beautiful walk down the track.
We stopped for a picnic at one of the reserves along Lake Hawea and then appreciated a late afternoon at home. We walked down to the lake for a sunset drink, but it was a bit too cold so took a short stroll instead to wrap up another delightful Wanaka day.
Saturday
With rain predicted, we planned for a quiet day. I went out for a lakeside walk to Waterfall Creek and beyond in the morning, followed by a leisurely brunch and then most of day on our laptops. It was time for me to do a budget review to see how our spending is matching up with what we can afford. Results = all good!
The day turned fine later and we took a very nice evening Glendhu Bay walk along lake – what a beautiful time to be out with the sun low behind Mt Roy.
Sunday
Last day in Wanaka! Hard to believe after feeling like two weeks here would give us plenty of time. There is still much that we didn’t do, but we made the most of this day with another absolutely stunning hike. This time we tackled the mountains that divide Lake Hawea from Lake Wanaka, on a track to the appropriately named Isthmus Peak.
It is the same distance (16km), almost the same altitude (1386m) with the same style views (mountains and lakes) as Mt Roy, but has about a tenth of the people and we enjoyed it that much more due to the lower traffic.
I was also delighted to be here because these are the craggy rocky mountains I have been admiring (from so many angles) since our very first walk in Wanaka along the lake.
The hike was fantastic the entire route, with views all the way up and all the way down, and a stupendous ridge walk along the top to the summit with its views of both lakes, Mt Aspiring and all the other local peaks.
Another picnic at Lake Hawea and then on to Wanaka Beerworks for a tasting. Have you ever wanted to visit a Toy Museum, a National Transport Museum, the World of Deer and a craft brewery all in one stop? This is that place. (and really, if you haven’t been dreaming of that combination, what is wrong with you?)
Wrap
Even after two full weeks in Wanaka, we hated to leave. It is the kind of place where we could spend a month and not be bored. Both the quiet lakeshore walks and the stunning tougher treks are rewarding for their views and general peaceful feeling.
When we come to New Zealand again (and there is by now no doubt in our minds that we will), we’ll book an extended stay in this lovely area and just hope that the increasing tourism and housing boom doesn’t change it too much in the meantime.
